The image that I’ve always had of Georgia is of one specific landmark – the Gergeti Trinity Church in the Kazbegi region. The photo of it on a hilltop, surrounded by snowcapped mountains, is perhaps the most iconic image of the country, and it was a top priority to see it while we were here. I scheduled it for our first full day out of the city so that we had some flexibility just in case there was weather up in the mountains.
We started at the Zhinvali Water Reservoir and the Ananuri Fortress. The reservoir is man made, created from a nearby dam. Ananuri sits on the water’s edge and has beautiful views of the valley.
Ananuri was built in the 13th century and is on the tentative list for UNESCO status. It’s famous for surviving a siege. It has secret tunnels that allowed the inhabitants to continue to get food and water. The name comes from a woman named Ana from the town of Nuri, who was captured by the enemy and tortured in an attempt to reveal the entrance to the tunnels, but she chose to die rather than betray her people.
After we had explored the fortress, we continued north to our next stop, which was a honey tasting! I’ve done one or two honey tastings before, and I’m always amazed at how different the honey tastes based on which types of plants the bees are pollinating.
As we continued north, the landscapes became more stunning! We stopped for lunch and then made our way to Stepantsminda, which is the closest town to the Gergeti Trinity Church.
We even had to switch from the small bus to cars that had 4×4 enabled to get up to the church! Thankfully, we were doing this all on dry roads. There was snow on the tops of some of the nearby mountains, and we saw a few patches of snow near the road, but our weather was perfect.
Once we were done at the church, we had one more stop on the way back to Tbilisi! And outside of Gergeti, this was the one I was the most excited for.
Welcome to the Russia – Georgia Friendship Monument! Our guide put the “friendship” part in very heavy quotes. Anyone who knows me should know that this is exactly the sort of Soviet-style pseudo propaganda I’m looking for when I travel. This particular monument was created to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk, which was signed in 1783 between the Russian Empire and the Kingdom of Georgia. By 1983, Georgia had been subsumed by the (soon to be defunct) USSR, and the narrative on the monument reflects that.
Our guide went through all the symbols with us, and while I don’t remember all of them, the gist is that Russian folklore and national symbols are to the right and Georgian folklore and national symbols are to the left. The center depicts a maternal Russia holding Georgia, her child, on her lap, and has an inscription in both Georgian and Russian. The design of it is absolutely stunning. I loved the vivid colors of the monument, even if its message is quite patronizing toward Georgia. It was interesting seeing the Russian perspective toward Georgia, especially since the majority of our trip was giving us the other side of the story.
And with that, it was back to Tbilisi! Heading up to Kazbegi was amazing. I would love to spend more time in the Caucasus Mountains. This was our only day trip into the mountains, because I wasn’t certain if it would be snowy or bad weather; that said, I think the hiking and trekking in the summer and fall are some of the best of what Georgia has to offer, and I would love to spend more time in the region. But we did have a few more fascinating stops that were included in our itinerary. More on that next time.
