Category: Asia

Ending in Aden

The initial itinerary for this trip ended with two days in Socotra. Socotra is certainly the most popular place in Yemen for travelers – it’s an island that’s quite far from the mainland, so it doesn’t have the same instability as the mainland, and it has a lot of beautiful nature and unique plants. But as we got closer to the trip, it became possible to go to Aden for tourism, and so the itinerary shifted so we could take advantage of that opportunity!

Aden is located on and in a caldera, so whenever we could get to high ground, we ended up with spectacular views of the city! Climbing up to the high ground in the abaya was not as fun, but so it goes.

It felt as though Aden was a much more relaxed city than some of the ones we had visited in the east. Women were walking around in just hijabs instead of niqabs, so we didn’t have to cover up quite as much even when we were in busier areas! We saw more men wearing western clothing as well.

One of the best activities was climbing up to Sira Fortress, which had amazing views. We hiked up to the top a little before sunset so that we could see the city in its best light.

The first night we were there, we went out to the night market, which was a late night. We ended up staying there until 2 or 3 am, and when we left, the market was still in full swing. It’s so interesting to see how the city becomes fully nocturnal during Ramadan. I am curious what the balance of normal life looks like when it isn’t Ramadan – even when I was in Saudi Arabia and Qatar, there was still definitely more life at night and less people out during the day just due to the sun and the heat. But it might not be quite so stark.

After the late night, we had a chill morning and did a little more sightseeing in the afternoon. We went to the Cisterns of Tawila and the Aidrus Mosque. We were going to try to go to the beach, but it seemed like some sort of VIP was already there and there were too many military checkpoints for us to continue. We ended up just going back for an early dinner, and then we found shisha and nonalcoholic beer (since Yemen is a fully dry country) that we could have on a nearby rooftop. It was a relaxing last day.

A film camera has never failed to make me look like a vampire

Our final morning was an early flight out to Cairo. We got a military transport for that last journey to the airport – I’d seen the men in front of our hotel, but I thought it was just some sort of hotel security or military that were based around the city. I hadn’t realized they were there for us!

All in all, Yemen was an amazing trip. One of my favorites, which is really saying something. It’s rare to find a place that feels completely unique, but Yemen absolutely does, between the culture, the history, the architecture, and the natural beauty. It was worth the constant heat and the heavy layers to get a chance to explore a place that does not see a lot of tourism or cultural influence from outsiders. I hope that things continue to get better in the north and that the country finds more stability in the future!

Asia Yemen

Going Viral in Mukalla

When we were in the airport in Cairo, before we boarded our Yemenia flight to Seiyun, we were told not to post on social media live. Not for safety reasons, but because it is so easy to go viral in Yemen that it would be a pain for us to be recognized in the streets everywhere we went. We wanted to keep a low profile. And we did a pretty good job of that… until we went to Mukalla!

The first place we went into Mukalla was the fish market! It was interesting but very smelly – I ended up having to wash out the hem of my abaya in the hotel sink to try to get the scent of fish out of it. I had never seen a market that sold stingrays before. We also headed next door to the market that sold fruits and vegetables.

The markets were cool, but the highlight of our time in Mukalla was the boat tour at sunset. Most cities are best viewed from the water, in my opinion!

The sun was about to dip over the horizon as we got back to land, which meant it was time for iftar! There was a big spread set up near the harbor, and the local people invited us there. A large group of foreigners caused a pretty big stir. Locals were taking photos and filming us as we sat down to break fast with them.

By the next day, we found out that one of the local Yemeni guys who was filming was an influencer, and videos and photos of us were everywhere. I even got recognized in Aden two days later! It was a strange experience, to say the least.

We got dinner, had shisha on the beach, and then headed to the night market. The night markets were so much fun. It felt like the whole city was out and about, buying and selling and bargaining for everything you could want to buy. I didn’t enjoy wearing the abaya, for the most part, but it was nice at the markets because I was entirely invisible while wearing it. I could look around without any extra stares.

The next day, we went back to the same area, and found it completely deserted! It was so strange to walk the same exact streets and find them empty, with no evidence of the chaos of the previous night. When we were done exploring, it was off to the airport for our next destination – Aden.

Asia Yemen

Into the Desert

It’s been a busy few months of moving apartments (again) and traveling a lot. Things are settling down again, so it’s time to get back to my irregular & not-scheduled travel blogging! When I left off, we were in Seiyun, Yemen.

From Seiyun, we headed into the desert to Wadi Dawan! The landscapes were reminiscent of Arizona, but with incredible Yemeni architecture at every turn. We had a few stops for viewpoints and exploring the towns before we made it to our next hotel.

Our hotel was amazing. It was on the edge of a cliff that reminded me of the Grand Canyon, with small towns dotted below. We even had an infinity pool that overlooked the canyon. Sometimes, when I go to places that are really off the beaten path, I think about how well these establishments would do if they were in more touristy places. The views from the pool were so nice. It would definitely be a luxury option if it was at a canyon that got more people visiting.

After enjoying the pool and relaxing for the first evening, we headed out to tour some of the surrounding communities the next day. It was interesting how the landscape changed going down into the canyon – suddenly, there were palm trees and a river bed, giving the whole area a feeling like an oasis.

There weren’t many people out and about, given that it was Ramadan, but the locals who were out were friendly and excited to see us. It is one of the best things for me of going to places that aren’t typically tourist destinations – I feel like places that have a lot of tourism can get jaded, because they see more of the negatives of having constant visitors, but regions that don’t see a lot of tourists are excited to share their culture and tell you about the places where they live. That’s how it felt in Yemen. People were so happy to say hi, and asked how we were enjoying our time here.

Some of us also went for a hike into the canyon to one of the villages! To be honest, I would not recommend hiking in an abaya – it was hot, it was difficult to figure out where my feet were under the dress, and I was stressed about tripping over the hem of it and skinning my knees on the rocks. But despite the less-than-ideal outfit, I’m glad I went on the hike, because it was gorgeous. We got down to the village close to sunset.

I like hiking. Not as much as some of my friends in Utah, but it’s always nice to add a short hike into an itinerary and have the chance to be awed by nature.

The next day, we headed to our next destination! We were heading from Wadi Dawan to the coast, which meant another few hours in the car for a quick road trip.

This region was probably my favorite in Yemen. I loved the natural beauty that was all around us, and it was nice to get into the smaller towns, where it felt like we could get better interactions with the locals than in the bigger cities. I will never forget sitting on the edge of the canyon, drinking tea and watching the sunset!

Asia Yemen

Welcome to Yemen

After Sarajevo, I flew to Istanbul, then Cairo, where I spent the night at an airport hotel. The next morning, I donned a black abaya and a headscarf and I boarded a Yemenia flight to Seiyun.

Yes, the US State Department warnings are pretty aggressive. And parts of the country are definitely not safe to travel to, but I felt safe where we were during our trip. I went with Wander Expeditions, and we took lots of precautions, including wearing local clothing to blend in. Plus, the areas where we went have military presence from Saudi Arabia and the UAE to help keep things more stable. The region considers themselves South Yemen, and have a unique flag with a blue triangle and a red star to differentiate themselves.

The very first thing we did was get our local clothing! For the women, it was pretty easy – there’s not a lot of variation in what you get to wear there. I had bought a black abaya online in advance and then had a couple headscarf options, one to cover my hair and one full niqab to cover everything but a narrow slit around my eyes. For the men, though, they have a fairly elaborate outfit that we had to buy at a local market.

One other facet of our trip is that we were there during Ramadan. During Ramadan, the entire rhythm of life changes, because there’s fasting from sunrise to sunset. The people operate more nocturnally, with life beginning the moment that the sun goes down and the call to prayer begins. Iftar, which is the breaking of the fast, began as we were driving from the market to our hotel to check in, and there were people on the side of the road passing out water and juice and snacks to everyone that drove by.

This was our first hotel in Seiyun, which I loved. It was beautiful, with an extensive garden, a pool, and a rooftop where we could sit and talk late into the night. Being in the hotels was also very freeing, because it was the only place where we didn’t have to wear the abayas or scarves.

Because of Ramadan, walking around during the day felt like a ghost town. We often wouldn’t see anyone around. In a few places, like the markets we visited later on in the trip, we would get the chance to go while it was lively and then we would walk the same streets the next morning and marvel at how much it had changed.

One of the strangest things was how familiar the landscape felt. It looks just like Arizona, where my grandparents lived for several decades. I used to visit every spring, and if I turned my head away from the buildings, I could practically imagine I was back there for a visit.

From Seiyun, we also visited Shibam, which has been called “the Manhattan of the Desert.” It’s the oldest city in the world to use vertical construction, making these the original skyscrapers.

Shibam was spectacular. Our first introduction of it was from a nearby hill, where we watched the sun set and heard the call to prayer. We went back the next day to talk to a few shopkeepers and take some photos.

The beaded mask is meant for weddings. The beadwork was so intricate and beautiful!

In general, the level of handicrafts was so high. I got a small woven bag and a carved wooden house that matches the style of the ones in Shibam, which are both incredible – I can’t wait to display them in my home.

They also spoke with us about the unique challenges of preserving these buildings. As one might guess about a building made from mud, it is vulnerable to water, including the condensation from retrofitted air-conditioning window units that they use in the hotter days.

One of the things that I love in foreign countries is seeing the brands, whether they’re familiar, knock off, or local. Oreo advertising about celebrating Ramadan in the Saudi Arabian Carrefour, for example. Yemen didn’t disappoint. The knock off Cheetos logo for their “Hot Fire” flavor was one of my favorite things I saw over the course of the week! And the bottom picture is a Fanta, in one of the cooler soda bottles I’ve ever seen.

I also would like to give a shout out to one of the people on my trip, Chad, who brought disposable cameras along with him and had us all use the film with some very cool results. Some aspects of visiting Yemen had a dreamlike quality to it, and the film development emphasized that in all the right ways. That last photo of Melhim and I standing on the top of a building and taking photos of the Shibam skyline is one of my favorites from the whole trip! Also, yes, I still look like a vampire when flash is used in photography. Some things never change.

This was the start of a truly special trip, and I’ll have more photos of it soon!

Asia Nepal

Stopover in Kathmandu

This time, Chelsea and I managed to sit on the correct side on the flight between Paro and Kathmandu. And wow! The views were spectacular. I think this is the best window view I’ve ever gotten on a plane, full stop. We got to see the Himalayas up close, and the pilot came on over the announcements and pointed out various significant peaks, including Everest. I read Into Thin Air at a formative age and have a great degree of respect for the Himalayas, so it’s always been a dream of mine to see Mount Everest from a nice safe distance.

Kathmandu has a very different vibe from anywhere in Bhutan – it’s a lot more populous and a lot more chaotic! The most similar place I’ve been would probably be Hanoi, and the skills I learned trying to cross the street there came in handy in Kathmandu. We made our way to our accommodation, which thankfully let us check in even though it was mid-morning.

Once we had stored our luggage and gotten our lives together a bit, we headed out to explore the city. We wandered around Thamel for a bit, got lunch, and spent a portion of the afternoon in the Garden of Dreams, reading and going through the various exhibits in the surrounding buildings. Our first lunch was fantastic – in general, I was very impressed with the food in Nepal. It didn’t hurt that we had mostly had buffet food in Bhutan as part of the tour, which wasn’t bad but was also…. just fine. I also had never had momos before! The Nepalese place that Sam and I used to get takeout from never had vegetarian ones, so I tried those for the first time on this trip and they were incredible.

The next day, we headed to two of the three Durbar Squares around Kathmandu Valley! These are royal squares, and they’re UNESCO sites that have some of the architecture from previous kingdoms that used to rule Nepal. A lot of the buildings were damaged in 2015, and you could still see some areas that had fault lines or damage, but I was impressed how much of it had been rebuilt. We went through a few exhibits in the one in Kathmandu, which had a pretty comprehensive history of how they transitioned into their current form of government. I didn’t realize how recently they transitioned to democracy.

From there, we headed out to Bhaktapur, which has one of the other Durbar Squares! We took a taxi there and back, which was pretty straightforward, and then we just wandered around. If you want a guide, there are a lot of people around who offered to take us around for money. There were lots of markets and restaurants as well. We only had a half day here, because Chelsea’s next tour had a meeting and dinner that evening, but it was definitely a worthwhile trip out from the Kathmandu city center.

I knew this was going to be a short time to explore Kathmandu, because it was really just a stopover and I had to fly home so I could get back to work, but I was still disappointed to have to leave so soon! I really liked Kathmandu. I have a few other places I would love to see in Nepal as well, and I will need to figure out a way to get back here again.

It’s a long series of flights out there from the US, but definitely worth a visit. Looking forward to my next trip to Nepal!

Asia Bhutan

Hiking to Tiger’s Nest

If you’ve ever seen any pictures of Bhutan, there’s a very good chance it’s been a picture of Paro Taktsang, aka Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It’s probably the most famous building in the country. Most itineraries place it on the final day, making it a sort of grand finale to a trip to Bhutan! The monastery is only accessible by hiking, which is a 3.5 mile out and back trail with an elevation gain of 1,948 feet. Alltrails considers it to be a hard hike, which is mostly from the elevation and the sheer number of stairs.

We woke up very early so we could get started before the sun got too hot. This was the right call – it was a lot less busy when we were hiking up, and by the time we were heading down, the trail was crowded and it was getting quite warm. We had our packed lunches from the hotel. The hike started with a short flat walk through the woods, and then we came around a corner to start the stairs.

From there, the hike was a lot of stairs! The halfway point, more or less, is the café. One of the wildest things is how far away the temple still is when you’re at the café – the picture below hopefully captures the scale. Still, the stop to eat a little and get some coffee helps a lot psychologically, even if it’s right back to more stairs. At some point, you get to the end of the stairs and it flattens out for a bit.

The most amazing moment of the whole hike is when you round the corner and the monastery comes into view! After marveling at it, and taking all the pictures you could want, there are two more sets of stairs. The worst is the staircase going down, because you know you have to immediately go back up again to actually get to the temple.

Touring the monastery was a great reward for the hike. We’ve seen a lot of cool Bhutanese architecture while we’ve been here, so it wasn’t especially different from the dzongs and temples in other places, but we appreciated it more here after the effort it took to get here! The hike down wasn’t too bad either, because after the one staircase up, it’s all downhill. We had a relaxed afternoon and then a cultural show with dinner, and then the next morning we all headed out for our international flights to our next destinations.

And that’s a wrap on Bhutan! It’s a fascinating place. Years of isolation from the rest of the world has left Bhutan with a truly unique culture, and I’m glad I had the chance to learn more about it.

Asia Bhutan

Going Over Dochula Pass

The next morning, we headed out of Thimphu and went over Dochula Pass! Our first stop was the 106 memorial stupas, and a viewpoint that probably would have been amazing if the clouds weren’t so low. The drive through the mountains was beautiful and gave us a much better sense of the countryside of Bhutan.

From there, we had lunch and then took a nice walk out to the Chimi Lhakhang Temple, which is perhaps better known as the Fertility Temple. One of the aspects of Bhutan that is so fascinating is the part of its history dealing with the Divine Madman. Basically, he helped people reach enlightenment through intercourse, and so phallic symbols are a way for Bhutanese people to protect themselves from the evil eye. It’s hard to describe how many phallic symbols you see across the country. They’re painted on buildings. They’re sold in shops, with elaborate paintings and shapes and carvings. Our driver had one as his compass. Needless to say, I have a number of photos that I cannot show publicly from this trip.

It’s strange to have to edit my pictures in this way. I had to do that a little in PNG, because some of the tribes have traditional outfits for sing-sings that are more revealing than the West is comfortable with, but this is a whole different level – most of the photos from this area are unpostable because of the phallic imagery!

Once we got to the temple, our guide asked us if anyone wanted to do the fertility ritual. Two women in my group did, which was very cool to be able to watch! Basically, they had to put on what was essentially a backpack made out of a large dildo, walk around the courtyard clockwise three times, and then receive a blessing. This included rolling some sort of dice to learn about the gender and name of their future child.

From there, we kept driving to the Punakha Dzong! This one is often considered the most beautiful in the country, and I would have to say I agree. Seeing it over the river was stunning.

We had one more stop before we got to our hotel in Punakha, which was the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. It’s beautiful over the river in Punakha – I loved the view from our hotel room while we were here!

The next morning we did the whole drive in reverse (with less stops) and headed back to Paro. Our first activity was the National Museum in Paro, which was an interesting experience. I’ve never seen a museum designed quite like this – it was in a cylinder, and you started around floor 3 or 4 and then went up to the top and then all the way down. There was a prescribed path that felt a little bit like a labyrinth, especially in areas where it took you down a staircase and then immediately back up another. Eventually, I ended up sort of separated from the group and I was working my way through the historical artifacts of Bhutan all on my own. It felt a little surreal.

After the National Museum, we headed down the hill to the Paro Dzong, which was smaller than the other ones we’d been to. We also stopped by some local archery grounds! Archery is Bhutan’s national sport. This was underscored when we arrived and our driver reached into a compartment in the bus where he kept his own bow and arrows, and he joined in. I’ve seen archery on TV before, like at the Olympics, but I don’t think I’d truly understood how far the distances were that they were shooting. It’s pretty incredible, I’m definitely glad we got a chance to see it.

We had a little free time to wander around in Paro, which was nice. Chelsea and I found a market and a path along the river. I love the chance to get lost in a city (or at least try, Paro isn’t big enough or windy enough to truly get lost). We had dinner at the hotel and then had a chill night – we knew we had an early rise the next morning so that we could hike to Tiger’s Nest!

Asia Bhutan

Thimphu, the Gateway to Bhutan

Post author By admin
Post date August 22, 2024
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From Istanbul, I headed to Bhutan! My friend Chelsea and I had been talking about going for several years, and so we finally made it happen in 2024. Bhutan is one of those places where tourism is pretty regulated, so we signed up for a GAdventures tour that would take us to Thimphu, Punakha, and Paro over the course of about six days. We met up in the Istanbul airport and flew to Kathmandu, and then from Kathmandu to Paro.

The flight from Kathmandu to Paro is well-known to be one of the most challenging routes to fly. Part of this is the altitude and part of it is the terrain – to fly into Paro, there’s a drop down into a valley and then the pilot has to fly with mountains on both sides. It’s also an absolutely gorgeous flight if you sit on the correct side (left from KTM to PBH, right from PBH to KTM). We didn’t manage it on the way to Kathmandu but we heard the pilot come over the radio as we passed Mount Everest! Once we landed, we went through immigration and customs in Paro, which is a very fancy airport, and met up with our group so we could all drive to Thimphu.

Not all of the roundabouts are this fancy or have people directing them, but this one is pretty cool!

Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan, and has the interesting distinction of being the only world capital that doesn’t have any traffic lights. I also find it very interesting to see the architectural styles of Bhutan – they adhere very rigidly to specific aesthetic standards, both in their architecture and in their decoration. We went to one of the schools where they teach people the traditional painting and art styles. It’s great to see that they’re preserving that component of their history, but what it means for visitors is that you can’t actually tell how old something is based on how it looks. The shop on the corner might be in a building that was from the 1600s or might be built earlier this year, and it would look more or less the same.

Visiting the school was pretty cool. They were teaching a bunch of different disciplines, so we could wander through and observe as the students worked on their various paintings and sculptures.

One of our other visits in Thimphu was the Royal Takin Preserve! I had never heard of a takin before, but they’re a national symbol in Bhutan. Apparently, they like humans a lot, and when the Bhutanese people thought that they shouldn’t keep them in enclosures and released them back into the wild, the takins just came and lived in downtown Thimphu, so they’re back in their preserve now. They were really cute.

We also headed up to the top of a nearby hill to see the giant Buddha, one of the symbols of the city.

Our last stop of the day was the first of many dzongs, the fortresses that used to help protect every town in Bhutan! This was the Tashichho Dzong, and it was gorgeous. It was fun to go from Istanbul to here and see two cultures that did a spectacular job at designing these beautiful, intricate palaces and religious institutions in two totally different ways – Türkiye with tile, Bhutan with paintings and carvings. It felt like everywhere I looked had new interesting features to examine. We headed out of Thimphu the next day, but I’m glad we had a chance to explore Bhutan’s capital first.

Asia Türkiye

A Week in Istanbul

I’ve flown through Istanbul airport before, but I’d never ventured into the city. Not for lack of trying, either – I’d been on a flight that could have qualified for a stopover tour, but I hadn’t been able to find it in the airport, and there was no luggage storage in the airport. Plus, that was before the metro reached the airport so it wasn’t exactly straightforward to get to the city. Regardless, I was very excited to change that with this trip!

I stayed in Sultanahmet, basically down the street from the Blue Mosque. As far as proximity to all of the quintessential Istanbul sites, this was perfect! That said, it was very busy and very chaotic – I think if I was going back to Istanbul, I would pick somewhere that was a little bit removed from the tourist sites, now that I’ve gone to them, because the more enjoyable part of the city was wandering through the smaller, less touristy neighborhoods and having coffee at the various cafés. My other pro tip re: the tourist sites – they are really busy during the day, but all that traffic drops off as it gets closer to dinner time, so if you can be flexible about your own itinerary, I would highly recommend looking at 6 – 8 pm as some of the best times to see some of the most well-known sites.

That’s what I did with the Hagia Sophia – I’d walked by it a few times and seen lines around the block, but when I was coming back from dinner there was no line! It was so cool to walk through with almost no one else around. The bottom level is reserved for its use as an operating mosque, while the top level is for tourists who want to come see the space. It’s a beautiful mosque, and the amount of history that’s taken place in this spot is unreal.

One of the coolest aspects of Istanbul, and of Türkiye as a whole, is the fact that it straddles the Bosphorus Strait and sits at the crosshairs of Europe and Asia! Most of Istanbul is on the European side, but it’s easy to take the ferry over. I spent a whole day taking ferries, first to Kadiköy and then to the Princes Islands. The views from the ferries are awesome and I had a really nice time exploring those areas.

My favorite of the major sites I went to was Topkapi Palace! It’s a massive complex and the tile work was gorgeous. While there were a ton of people there when I went, it was easy enough to avoid some of the longest lines and explore what didn’t require a massive queue – I still didn’t see everything, but what I did see was pretty spectacular. My only regret was that I should have planned out food a little better, because I didn’t have enough for breakfast and ended up having a cobbled together lunch of potato chips and juice because I didn’t realize how big of a complex it was when I grabbed my ticket.

The other major Istanbul site that was at the top of my list was the Basilica Cistern, for a kind of embarrassing reason? I’d read about it in a Dan Brown book, if you must know. His novel Inferno is partially set in Istanbul and there’s a scene set in the cistern that made it sound super cool. It made the whole city of Istanbul sound super cool, honestly, but the Basilica Cistern was the place I’d never heard about and then I looked it up and Google showed me some pictures that looked incredible. So I went after dinner and walked around. It was built in the 6th century and, while it used to be a major source of Istanbul’s water, it’s now a tourist attraction, so they project colored lights in there and there are several art exhibits. You don’t need a ton of time in there, but I’m glad I went to see it!

Most of what I did in Istanbul, though, was just walk around the various neighborhoods. Karaköy was fun, especially once I got off the main boulevards and found some smaller streets full of boutiques and cafés. I went into a couple mosques that weren’t the ones you know about by searching “what to do in Istanbul” online. I ended up in Galataport at one point, meant for cruise visitors but also an interesting little planned area along the Bosphorus. I saw lots of street cats.

I had a really nice five days in Istanbul! I’ve been wanting to visit for such a long time, and it definitely delivered. Istanbul is one of those hubs that I expect to fly through a lot more now that I live on the East Coast, and I’m glad I’ve gotten a chance to finally get out of the airport and see a little more of it.

Asia Türkiye

Celebration in Cappadocia

Post author By admin
Post date August 8, 2024
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My next trip started with a huge milestone: my 50th country! Considering that when I turned 20, I had only been to the US, Canada, and Denmark, where I had just started a semester abroad, it’s absolutely incredible how much I’ve had the opportunity to travel over the course of my 20s. My first goal was 30 countries by 30 and I have well surpassed that. I wanted to pick something cool for #50, so I went with a week in Türkiye! After landing in the Istanbul airport, I headed to the domestic terminal and boarded my flight to Kayseri.

I had booked myself into a cave hotel, which was absolutely the right call. I stayed at the Aza Cave Hotel, and they handled almost all of my logistics while I was in the region, including my airport transfers, my Red and Green tours, and of course, the all-important hot air balloon ride! I loved my experience there. Everything was so smooth, and there were amazing views of the valley from right outside my door.

The balloons didn’t run the first day I was there because of the wind. I was pretty jetlagged, though, so I still got up early and headed into town to explore a bit before my tour picked me up. The town of Göreme has tons of the traditional cave hotels, which is why it’s where a lot of tourists stay when they come to the region. It makes for an interesting town vibe, with lots of windy roads among the rock formations.

I was taking the Red tour the first day, which goes to many of the main sites in and around Göreme. It’s the most popular tour and is definitely a good introduction to the Cappadocia region. Fun fact, the term “Cappadocia” is more of a tourist region designation than any kind of real geographic/cultural designation. It’s in the Anatolia region of Turkey. The tour had a lot of cool stops, all clustered close to Göreme, and we had our lunch at the bottom of this canyon. This was the perfect first day tour – no long drives, and we got back on the earlier side. Between jet lag and the planned early wakeup the next morning, I was happy to have an earlier bedtime.

The next morning was the moment I had been waiting for – hot air balloons! I went with Discovery Balloons and had a great time. The morning started with a brutally early pick up from the hotel, and then we were driven to a dark field where we got pastries and coffee while we watched our team prepare the balloons. This was pretty cool in and of itself, because we got to watch as the balloons all around us started inflating and taking off.

Our guide started off by taking us as high as we could go, and then we worked our way back down through the valley. Something that really surprised me about the experience was how quiet it all was. Once you were up in the air, it was so peaceful – the only noise by the pilot was an occasional whoosh of flame to adjust the height and sporadic radio messages. I loved the experience of flying that way and seeing the rock formations from a different perspective.

As for how expensive your hot air balloon ride is, the main differentiator is the number of people in the basket. I did the standard one, which I think had capacity for 28 people, and I was happy with this. I personally wouldn’t have spent the additional money to do a smaller basket. I felt like our pilot did a great job maneuvering the balloon around so that we all got a chance to see everything, and it wasn’t like one side of the balloon ever had a “bad” view.

A hot air balloon ride is something I’ve always wanted to try, and I’m so glad I did it here in Cappadocia! I don’t think I need to do it again, because I think the experience of it wouldn’t necessarily feel that different even in a different landscape, and it’s a very expensive thing to do, but I do recommend that people try it somewhere that has a cool and interesting landscape. I also was so amazed by the pilots and crew and how smoothly everything ran – our pilot landed us on the truck that they use to transport the balloons, which was pretty incredible. Afterwards, we all got certificates and a sort of knockoff champagne to toast to our experience!

I got back to my hotel in time for breakfast and a very quick nap before my next tour, which was the Green tour. It goes a bit farther afield to the southern region of Cappadocia. We started at an underground city, which was fascinating to see how people lived in this region. For a long time, there were both cave dwellings and underground cities for security, which is similar to dwellings I’ve seen in the Western US as well. We also headed to Selime Monastery, which was high up on a cliffside.

Our lunch spot on this tour was super cool. We hiked down into a valley and along a river, and the restaurant had these little huts where you could sit and eat lunch. It was so relaxing, and the two other people with me had been on the Red tour the day before so we had a nice conversation along with our meal!

My last morning was a relaxed breakfast before heading back to Istanbul. I couldn’t have asked for a better introduction to Türkiye or a better celebration for country #50. Looking forward to many more!